Sauvignon Blanc .............................. Chardonnay
How to Read a Label
Learning to read wine labels and to understand what the various items displayed on them mean can be a life-long pursuit, but there are a couple of important things to remember that can reduce confusion.
Even the most seasoned veteran wine buyer would probably be fibbing if s/he said s/he could confidently read every label.
Certain items appear on every label and constitute international standards: Volume, Alcohol level, Address of responsible party and Country of origin.
There are, however, two basic approaches to wine labeling: one is the varietal approach; the other is the geographical approach.
Either one of these may be augmented by the addition of a brand name which, if you like, you can understand as a third approach.
The varietal and the geographical may also be used together and, for various reasons, increasingly are. The essential difference between the two approaches is a philosophical one: to the question, “What most influences the taste of a wine?” the answers will differ.
Geographical Labels
Geographical labels are primarily identified with old world or European wines. Part of the reason for this is that the European Union takes the French approach as its model for wine legislation.
In the wake of the phylloxera devastation and the various forms of fraud and adulteration which were common in the early part of this century, the French government designed a system which would try to guarantee the authenticity of quality French wines.
Authenticity in this case meant that the wine came from a particular place (that is, an appellation), and followed the local traditions of viticulture and winemaking (that is, was controlled).
This would effectively protect both consumers and producers.
Today, the EU recognizes two classes of wine: Table Wine, and Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR)—in French, the acronym is VQPRD
Though it is a simplification, the French choice to label their quality wine with geographical names flows from their answer to a question as to what most influences the taste of the wine.
The answer to that question has long been that it is terroir that most influences the taste. This belief is held so deeply that for many regions, it is illegal to label a wine with its grape variety and still maintain the quality designation.
Governing Bodies and Label Notation
In the wake of the phylloxera devastation and the various forms of fraud and adulteration which were common in the early part of this century, the French government designed a system which would try to guarantee the authenticity of quality French wines.
Authenticity in this case meant that the wine came from a particular place (that is, an appellation), and followed the local traditions of viticulture and winemaking (that is, was controlled).
This would effectively protect both consumers and producers.
Today, the EU recognizes two classes of wine: Table Wine, and Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR)—in French, the acronym is VQPRD
Though it is a simplification, the French choice to label their quality wine with geographical names flows from their answer to a question as to what most influences the taste of the wine.
The answer to that question has long been that it is terroir that most influences the taste. This belief is held so deeply that for many regions, it is illegal to label a wine with its grape variety and still maintain the quality designation.
Governing Bodies and Label Notation
Most countries which export wine (all of the EU countries) have governing bodies which oversee and regulate their wine industries. Though the name of the governing body itself rarely, if ever, appears on the label, the
governing body is responsible for approving the wine, usually first and
foremost on the geographical origin of wine, but also for issues such as
grape variety, yields, growing techniques and vinification.
It is important to be able to identify the marks of these governing bodies on labels, which are designed to guarantee the wine’s authenticity.
The following lists the marks of some of the governing bodies—all of the initials are acronyms in the native languages stating that the wine’s geographical place name is authentic and that the growing and making of the wine is controlled and regulated.
governing body is responsible for approving the wine, usually first and
foremost on the geographical origin of wine, but also for issues such as
grape variety, yields, growing techniques and vinification.
It is important to be able to identify the marks of these governing bodies on labels, which are designed to guarantee the wine’s authenticity.
The following lists the marks of some of the governing bodies—all of the initials are acronyms in the native languages stating that the wine’s geographical place name is authentic and that the growing and making of the wine is controlled and regulated.
Some Examples
AOC (sometimes just AC)—appellation d’origine controlée—France
DOC(G)—denominazione di origine controllata (e garantita)—Italy
DO(Ca)—denominación de origem (calificada)—Spain
DOC—denominaçao de origem controlada—Portugal
Qba/Qmp—qualitätswein (bestimmter anbaugebiete) (mit prädikat)—Germany
GI—geographic indication--Australia
AVA—american viticultural area—United States
WO—wine of origin—South Africa
AOC (sometimes just AC)—appellation d’origine controlée—France
DOC(G)—denominazione di origine controllata (e garantita)—Italy
DO(Ca)—denominación de origem (calificada)—Spain
DOC—denominaçao de origem controlada—Portugal
Qba/Qmp—qualitätswein (bestimmter anbaugebiete) (mit prädikat)—Germany
GI—geographic indication--Australia
AVA—american viticultural area—United States
WO—wine of origin—South Africa
Varietal Labels
A varietally labeled wine is simply one in which the grape variety or varieties are prominent. Though certain European wine-growing regions have used the varietal approach combined with the geographical (Germany and Alsace are examples) for many years, varietally labeled wines are most identified with the New World wines of North and South America, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.
Like the geographical approach to labels, the varietal approach asks the question: What most influences the taste of wine?
It may be, however, that it also asks: What do consumers want?
The answer will likely be different depending on the market, but there is little doubt that new world and British consumers have answered overwhelmingly that they prefer varietally labeled wines.
At the upper end of the market, this is less true, but certainly in less expensive wines, varietal wines are dominant.
Increasingly, however, we are seeing wine labels which feature both grape variety and growing region in equal balance. This is partly due to the influence of the EU which has worked with some new world countries to help them develop geographically based authentication systems with the threat that if they don’t, they will lose access to the European market.
The United States has developed the AVA (American Viticultural Area); Canada has the VQA (Vintner’s Quality Alliance); and Australia is working to establish a system based on what it calls a GI (Geographic Indication)
Brands.
There is a third option to labeling, the brand.
The focus with branded wines will generally be to ensure the consumer a consistency of product. Branded labels are often combined with geographical and varietal terms on the labels. Though it is very often the least expensive wines on the market that are marketed based on brand, some of the world’s most famous wines are, basically, brand names. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, for example, is a brand name for a wine which is properly described as AOC Pauillac.
Some Things to Think About
In practice today, geography, variety, and brand (or some form on proprietary name, such as “Bin 65” or “Yellow Label”) are often mixed on labels.
Geographical labels are often criticized for making unreasonable demands on consumers and shooting themselves in the foot in the process. Italy, for example, now has over 300 DOC zones.
Who, ask the critics, has time to do a PhD in geography while looking for a bottle of wine to serve with chicken parmagian?
Critics of varietally labeled wines counter that the crutch of varietalism (grape labeling) has led consumers to an ever-shrinking set of varietal wines at the expense of wonderful blended wines and varieties which are a little more difficult to pronounce. There has been, in other words, a flattening out of the market—200 Chardonnays to choose from, but little else.
This, in turn, has led to growers planting vines based solely on the market share their prospective varieties hold, not on the time-honoured principles of terroir.
Chardonnay, for example, will grow anywhere; but it won’t grow wonderfully well
anywhere. For some, the power of a small number of varieties has fuelled the decline of Romance in the world of wine the discovery of an intimacy between grape, place and the mind of a maker which suggests a harmony with the natural world which is deep, profound, resonant, and life-affirming.
Language Development
Colour
As we’ve mentioned, colour tells us much about a wine and is affected by several
factors—grape variety, climate, method of vinification, age.
In the interests of developing some vocabulary related to colour—vocabulary we will work on over the coming weeks I include here a standard colour progression for red and white wines.
Reds
Purple, mauve, lilac, and blue-black colours dominate in young red wines made from heavily pigmented varieties, and most never leave this stage; they are consumed.
Ruby often still dark, but no longer dominated by purple and blue hue; this is
common for young wines from more lightly pigmented varieties for some wines, this is the plateau of good drinkability usually 1-3 years.
Red or Garnet Red an intermediate stage common in fine wine usually 3-5 years.
Red-Brown (brick or tile red) brownish tinge develops at rim; most fine wines at
their peak here usually 5-10 years.
Mahogany a darker tint at the confluence of the red/brown axis most wines do not reach this stage in good health 10-15 years or more.
Amber Brown a very old wine; and an acquired taste.
Whites
Pale Yellow/Green common to cool-climate whites with the greenish reflection not often present in warm-climate wines.
Light Yellow most common for dry white wines.
Yellow/Gold common in young sweet wines and also in 2-4 year old wines which
have been aged in wood.
Gold next stage for sweet wines, and for very fine dry table wines after 4-6 years.
Yellow/Brown may be the peak of a mature sweet wine, but typically indicates
senility in dry whites, oxidation.
Sauvignon Blanc
In the Vineyard
Features
Mid-sized berries in tight bunches
High acid levels
Late budding and early ripening, which makes it ideal for cool climates
Susceptibility
Highly susceptible to Botrytis
Powdery Mildew
Black rot on fertile soils
Soils
Most successful on chalk and flint (silex)
Gravel, loam
Climate
Ideal for cool climate but likes sun
Long growing season for sweet styles (the grape is rarely found as a single variety sweet wine—it is blended, however, with Semillon to produce one of the world’s most famous sweeties, Sauternes).
In the Winery
Vinification and Ageing
Classic style is cool fermentation in inert vessel with no MLF to retain fruit and acidity common in the Loire Valley and New Zealand.
Other classic style is blended and aged in wood for white Bordeaux and some new world wines.
New World experiments with oak and MLF designed to tame the wild aroma of the grape have been marginally successful and given birth to Sauvignon often in the guise of Fume Blanc which tastes much like barrel-fermented Chardonnay.
Generally designed for early drinking, but when blended with Semillon in Sauternes and dry white Bordeaux, the wines age well though not because of the Sauvignon—more like in spite of the Sauvignon.
Aroma and Taste
Fruit: gooseberry, passion fruit, kiwi, lime and lemon zest, grapefruit, green fig.
Vegetal: asparagus, green pepper, cut grass, green beans.
Earthy: wet stone, gunpowder and flint, mineral.
Cat’s pee (this familiar descriptor seems to be going by the wayside in favour of
‘currant flowers’ or ‘black currant bud’), armpit sweat.
High acidity, medium alcohol, dry and sweet styles.
Noted Regions
Spiritual Home eastern Loire Valley in appellations of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, Quincy, and Menetou-Salon. Bordeaux—especially Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, and Sauternes.
Other important areas New Zealand’s South Island Region of Marlborough and other areas of New Zealand. Sonoma and Napa Valley California. Grown in most cool climate countries, Canada, parts of Australia, Chile, Italy, South
Africa.
Chardonnay
In the Vineyard
Features
Large berries, usually with small brown spots.
Early budding and ripening.
High sugar capability.
Neutral grape, which makes it as attractive to a winemaker as a blank canvas is to a painter.
Susceptibility
Generally quite hardy but susceptible to powdery mildew, frost, and uneven fruit set. Acidity drops quickly at ripening, which can make for flabby wines (or require acid adjustments).
Soils and Climate
Highly adaptable to different soils and climates.
Classic expressions are from limestone soils, or other calcium rich soils with good
drainage such as chalky marl—also does well on sandstone.
Poor results in wet soils.
In warm climates, has a tendency to over ripen.
In the Winery
Vinification and Ageing
Anything goes grape but there are two classic styles.
Inert vessels produce neutral, occasionally apple-scented wines with crisp acids and mineral tones. Chablis is the classic expression.
Oak ageing or barrel fermentation with MLF, fatter, buttery, vanilla-scented wines, often with tropical fruit scents White Burgundies from the Cote d’Or are the classic expression; many New World wines are made in a similar style.
Tropical fruit notes common to new world styles often a result of brief skin contact.
Cool climate—chaptalization (sugar added during fermentation to increase alcohol and body); Warm climate—acidification.
Some wines can age well up to 10 years and beyond, but this is personal taste.
Aroma and Taste
Fruit: apple (sometimes baked), pear, lemon, mango, pineapple, peach.
Dairy/Bakery: cream, butter, biscuits, yeast.
Woody: oak, vanilla, toast, smoke.
Caramelized: honey, butterscotch.
Nutty: popcorn, almond, hazelnut in older wines.
Medium to high acidity and the potential for high alcohol.
Noted Regions
Spiritual home Burgundy in central France. More specifically, Chablis, the Cote de Beaune, and the southern areas of Burgundy in the Maconnais (Pouilly-Fuisse).
Most specifically, the villages of Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Puligny-
Montrachet on the Cote de Beaune in Burgundy. Champagne.
Other important areas California especially Napa and Sonoma, though the grape is grown all over California. Australia especially South Australia. Italy especially the Langhe hills in the north-western region of Piemonte.
Everywhere else on earth, from India to Canada.
Geographical labels are often criticized for making unreasonable demands on consumers and shooting themselves in the foot in the process. Italy, for example, now has over 300 DOC zones.
Who, ask the critics, has time to do a PhD in geography while looking for a bottle of wine to serve with chicken parmagian?
Critics of varietally labeled wines counter that the crutch of varietalism (grape labeling) has led consumers to an ever-shrinking set of varietal wines at the expense of wonderful blended wines and varieties which are a little more difficult to pronounce. There has been, in other words, a flattening out of the market—200 Chardonnays to choose from, but little else.
This, in turn, has led to growers planting vines based solely on the market share their prospective varieties hold, not on the time-honoured principles of terroir.
Chardonnay, for example, will grow anywhere; but it won’t grow wonderfully well
anywhere. For some, the power of a small number of varieties has fuelled the decline of Romance in the world of wine the discovery of an intimacy between grape, place and the mind of a maker which suggests a harmony with the natural world which is deep, profound, resonant, and life-affirming.
Language Development
Colour
As we’ve mentioned, colour tells us much about a wine and is affected by several
factors—grape variety, climate, method of vinification, age.
In the interests of developing some vocabulary related to colour—vocabulary we will work on over the coming weeks I include here a standard colour progression for red and white wines.
Reds
Purple, mauve, lilac, and blue-black colours dominate in young red wines made from heavily pigmented varieties, and most never leave this stage; they are consumed.
Ruby often still dark, but no longer dominated by purple and blue hue; this is
common for young wines from more lightly pigmented varieties for some wines, this is the plateau of good drinkability usually 1-3 years.
Red or Garnet Red an intermediate stage common in fine wine usually 3-5 years.
Red-Brown (brick or tile red) brownish tinge develops at rim; most fine wines at
their peak here usually 5-10 years.
Mahogany a darker tint at the confluence of the red/brown axis most wines do not reach this stage in good health 10-15 years or more.
Amber Brown a very old wine; and an acquired taste.
Whites
Pale Yellow/Green common to cool-climate whites with the greenish reflection not often present in warm-climate wines.
Light Yellow most common for dry white wines.
Yellow/Gold common in young sweet wines and also in 2-4 year old wines which
have been aged in wood.
Gold next stage for sweet wines, and for very fine dry table wines after 4-6 years.
Yellow/Brown may be the peak of a mature sweet wine, but typically indicates
senility in dry whites, oxidation.
Sauvignon Blanc
In the Vineyard
Features
Mid-sized berries in tight bunches
High acid levels
Late budding and early ripening, which makes it ideal for cool climates
Susceptibility
Highly susceptible to Botrytis
Powdery Mildew
Black rot on fertile soils
Soils
Most successful on chalk and flint (silex)
Gravel, loam
Climate
Ideal for cool climate but likes sun
Long growing season for sweet styles (the grape is rarely found as a single variety sweet wine—it is blended, however, with Semillon to produce one of the world’s most famous sweeties, Sauternes).
In the Winery
Vinification and Ageing
Classic style is cool fermentation in inert vessel with no MLF to retain fruit and acidity common in the Loire Valley and New Zealand.
Other classic style is blended and aged in wood for white Bordeaux and some new world wines.
New World experiments with oak and MLF designed to tame the wild aroma of the grape have been marginally successful and given birth to Sauvignon often in the guise of Fume Blanc which tastes much like barrel-fermented Chardonnay.
Generally designed for early drinking, but when blended with Semillon in Sauternes and dry white Bordeaux, the wines age well though not because of the Sauvignon—more like in spite of the Sauvignon.
Aroma and Taste
Fruit: gooseberry, passion fruit, kiwi, lime and lemon zest, grapefruit, green fig.
Vegetal: asparagus, green pepper, cut grass, green beans.
Earthy: wet stone, gunpowder and flint, mineral.
Cat’s pee (this familiar descriptor seems to be going by the wayside in favour of
‘currant flowers’ or ‘black currant bud’), armpit sweat.
High acidity, medium alcohol, dry and sweet styles.
Noted Regions
Spiritual Home eastern Loire Valley in appellations of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, Quincy, and Menetou-Salon. Bordeaux—especially Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, and Sauternes.
Other important areas New Zealand’s South Island Region of Marlborough and other areas of New Zealand. Sonoma and Napa Valley California. Grown in most cool climate countries, Canada, parts of Australia, Chile, Italy, South
Africa.
Chardonnay
In the Vineyard
Features
Large berries, usually with small brown spots.
Early budding and ripening.
High sugar capability.
Neutral grape, which makes it as attractive to a winemaker as a blank canvas is to a painter.
Susceptibility
Generally quite hardy but susceptible to powdery mildew, frost, and uneven fruit set. Acidity drops quickly at ripening, which can make for flabby wines (or require acid adjustments).
Soils and Climate
Highly adaptable to different soils and climates.
Classic expressions are from limestone soils, or other calcium rich soils with good
drainage such as chalky marl—also does well on sandstone.
Poor results in wet soils.
In warm climates, has a tendency to over ripen.
In the Winery
Vinification and Ageing
Anything goes grape but there are two classic styles.
Inert vessels produce neutral, occasionally apple-scented wines with crisp acids and mineral tones. Chablis is the classic expression.
Oak ageing or barrel fermentation with MLF, fatter, buttery, vanilla-scented wines, often with tropical fruit scents White Burgundies from the Cote d’Or are the classic expression; many New World wines are made in a similar style.
Tropical fruit notes common to new world styles often a result of brief skin contact.
Cool climate—chaptalization (sugar added during fermentation to increase alcohol and body); Warm climate—acidification.
Some wines can age well up to 10 years and beyond, but this is personal taste.
Aroma and Taste
Fruit: apple (sometimes baked), pear, lemon, mango, pineapple, peach.
Dairy/Bakery: cream, butter, biscuits, yeast.
Woody: oak, vanilla, toast, smoke.
Caramelized: honey, butterscotch.
Nutty: popcorn, almond, hazelnut in older wines.
Medium to high acidity and the potential for high alcohol.
Noted Regions
Spiritual home Burgundy in central France. More specifically, Chablis, the Cote de Beaune, and the southern areas of Burgundy in the Maconnais (Pouilly-Fuisse).
Most specifically, the villages of Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Puligny-
Montrachet on the Cote de Beaune in Burgundy. Champagne.
Other important areas California especially Napa and Sonoma, though the grape is grown all over California. Australia especially South Australia. Italy especially the Langhe hills in the north-western region of Piemonte.
Everywhere else on earth, from India to Canada.
No comments:
Post a Comment